Preparing for your first trip to Japan

If you are going to Japan for the first time soon, you’re either very excited or nonchalant but will soon be excited. (I was in the latter category, but after my first trip, I booked next year’s tickets to Japan just a few days after leaving Japan.) There are a ton of posts online about going to Japan and they are chock full of great information. This post aims to approach it from a (somewhat) more concise, instructive perspective based on my experiences.

The good news about Japan

Japan is one of the safest countries on Earth. That doesn’t mean petty theft doesn’t occur, but it does mean you can comfortably walk around at night as a solo traveler. As long as you keep an eye out on your surroundings, you will be fine.

Japanese hospitality is also world-renowned. You can expect very kind treatment wherever you go.

Japanese people tend to be very polite and take their jobs very seriously. That’s also why the hospitality is so good. 😊

The catch about Japan

With the high level of hospitality and respect in Japan comes the need to also respect their customs and way of life (to a certain degree). Note how I did not name this section “the bad news about Japan”; if anything, I find this to be a perk, but one that nonetheless requires adjustment and an open mind.

Following Japanese rules and etiquette

Japan’s rules and etiquette are very strict. Arguably, it’s the strictest out of any major society in the world. For tourists, the minimum expected decorum is for you to follow the rules of Japanese society, both written and unspoken. This is a long section, but just bear with me; it’s very important.

The two most important Japanese phrases

They are not “konnichiwa” and “ohayou gozaimasu”, although those would be helpful to know too. They are:

• Arigato gozaimasu = Thank you. It’s pronounced ah-ree-gah-tow go-zah-ee-mah-ss. (I haven’t capitalized any of the syllables because each syllable needs to be stressed equally, unlike in English.) You should say this at least once in basically every interaction you have with a service worker.
• Sumimasen = Excuse me/sorry. It’s pronounced soo-mee-mah-sen. Whenever you would say excuse me in English (or sorry for a small mistake when it’s your fault), say sumimasen. (Note: this is not the same as the word “sorry” in the sentence “I’m so sorry to hear that”.)

Signs and visual cues

Japan often uses signs and visual directions. They most often feature English, as it’s foreigners (Japanese: gaijin) who aren’t familiar with Japanese customs. But that’s okay! As long as you follow the directions, you’ll be fine. They could be in front of you, overhead, or on the ground. They will be instructive on what to do. Oftentimes, Japanese staff of a certain establishment will simply give you a sign to read rather than telling you verbally about something.

Lining up

For instance, try to find a line on the floor that indicates where you should line up. If one doesn’t exist, your safest bet is to always follow what the Japanese people there are doing. Otherwise, just try your best and you’ll be politely corrected if you’re wrong. No worries if that happens; you’ll be easily forgiven with a smile if you say “sumimasen” in response (which means “excuse me”) with a smile and bow towards them quickly at a 15 degree angle.

That being said, many rules are unspoken/implied, especially in less touristy areas. For example, restaurants that are at capacity will also have a line system. It will usually be outside, but it might not be clear cut where it is, because it could very well be at the curbside of the street near the entrance of the restaurant. You may find yourself waiting two hours for a good restaurant, but it will probably be worth it if you really want to eat there. Cutting in line is technically a crime and can result in a fine or arrest. But don’t let that scare you—it just means Japanese people take waiting in line very seriously!

Quiet, please!

Another major rule is to stay quiet in public, and if you are supposed to communicate, talk quietly (or at least keep your volume slightly lower than in the U.S. unless the surrounding ambience is a bit too loud for that). Talking loudly is frowned upon basically everywhere, and talking at a volume normal for western countries might be too much. Talking at any volume, except whispering, is also frowned upon on local trains and metro lines, because Japanese people use metro lines to rest peacefully and quietly. In many places, it’s forbidden to take calls, especially on trains and airport lounges operated by Japanese airlines or the airport. (A notable exception to the latter is the Delta Sky Club at Tokyo’s Haneda Airport.)

Eating on trains

Eating is either expressly or effectively prohibited on all local trains, such as metro lines. However, it’s okay to eat on limited express trains and the Shinkansen. In fact, ekiben, short for ekibento (station bento), are specifically sold at Shinkansen train stations for the sole purpose of consumption on the Shinkansen. For other forms of train transportation, the rules might be a bit more unclear. A good rule of thumb is: if you’re going to be on the train for more than an hour, you’re leaving a city, and there is a tray table, then you can probably eat on board.

Yes, the hotels need your passports

Hotels and Airbnbs are required by law to keep a photocopy of your passport photo page on file. They usually photocopy this, print it out on paper, and store it in their records for safekeeping. This is for public safety purposes, in case the police need to retrace your stay history to aid them in any investigation. Please cooperate with this if you don’t want to sleep on the streets! 🙂

It’s too much!

Some tourists might get frustrated at the large array of rules. From my experience, some European tourists can be aggressive towards you when you insist they wait their turn in line. I guess they are tired of following the strict rules of Japanese society. My honest opinion is, if you find yourself frustrated at the rules of Japanese society, don’t go. When in Rome, you should do as the Romans do, and if you can’t respect that, then it’s better for both sides for you to simply not visit. Tourism is a privilege, not a right. Just like how foreigners must obey the laws of the countries they visit, the need for foreigners to respect local regulations and customs is a firm requirement, not a preference.

Also, in general, Japanese rules make sense. They have reasons behind them, whether historical or logical, and they are usually to improve quality of life or improve efficiency. This contrasts with German rules, which some Americans find to be bizarre, arbitrary, Byzantine, and overly strict for no reasons other than “these are the rules and they need to be respected”, with no exceptions. (On the other hand, when my friend or I made a small mistake in Japan and technically “violated the rules”, we were forgiven for it and never penalized.)

Before arriving in Japan

To avoid extreme inconvenience, please do the following before arriving in Japan.

Figure out your cell provider’s roaming situation

You may wish to check with your cell provider about whether their roaming plans would work for you. T-Mobile provides free roaming for slow data and texts, but realistically, you’ll need a fast data pass. They last between 24 hours and 30 days, depending on which one you choose, but the pricing can be a bit high. AT&T gives day passes that activate for 24 hours as soon as you use the data, but it can add up quickly if you’re using it for more than a few days.

Usually, the best way to get cheap data is to get a local SIM card. However, that can be quite annoying. Thankfully, eSIMs have proliferated. If your phone is unlocked (Google it if you’re unsure what that means or if you want to learn how to check), you can use an eSIM for cheap. In general, I recommend Nomad for travel in North America and Europe, but for Japan specifically, I’ve heard Ubigi has great reviews. Plus, it’s a local carrier offering it, so your data won’t be routed to some far away foreign country and cause speeds to be slower, which is most likely what Nomad would do for Japan. Here’s the link to Ubigi: https://cellulardata.ubigi.com/data-plans-and-coverage/ubigi-esim-data-plans/

Make sure you have physical yen

Japan is a cash-heavy society. Many places, including train ticket vending machines, do not accept card. Before arriving, it’s best to get around ¥3,000 JPY per person in Japanese banknotes. This is roughly equivalent to $20 as of October 2023. You can order foreign currency from your local bank. The exchange rate won’t be the best, but it’s the sense of security you need to be sure you won’t be in a situation where you have no money you can use.

The good news is, if you arrive in Tokyo, it’ll be quite easy to access the ATMs as soon as you clear customs. Read on for more information about that.

Also, the lowest denomination banknote is the ¥1,000 bill. There are ¥100 and even ¥500 coins. It’s best to buy a coin wallet to store all of the coins you will inevitably have; carrying this around with you will be a lot better than lugging around 50 coins in your pocket.

Have a suitable debit or ATM card

You absolutely need to be able to withdraw cash while in Japan. A Charles Schwab checking account is a great choice because they reimburse unlimited ATM fees, so you can safely withdraw money without having to worry about paying more than you should. Other foreign debit cards work too, especially if they reimburse your ATM fees.

When at the ATM withdrawing money, be sure to always decline dynamic currency conversion and always withdraw the amount in the local currency when prompted, because this uses your own bank’s currency conversion rates. For instance, it might ask you “do you want to withdraw in JPY or USD?” Always pick JPY. Your own bank will give you a better currency exchange rate than the ATM’s.

Recommended: Get a credit card without foreign transaction fees

Foreign transaction fees can sting. Why pay an extra 2-3% for no reason when you can get a credit card without any? See the credit cards articles on Upgraded for Economy for more information.

By the way, due to the partnership that Amex has with JCB, it turns out that Amex is accepted more often than Visa and Mastercard. Surprised? Me too. Well, only in Japan does this happen!

Consider whether a JR Pass is the right choice for you

A Japan Rail Pass is only for foreigners and allows for unlimited intercity travel on JR trains for a specified duration of time. As of recently, it has gone up in price and can only be purchased from abroad. JR Passes are great if you are taking the Shinkansen more than three or four times a week across multiple regions of Japan. They are even more price effective when you only take the slightly slower Hikari trains instead of the Nozomi trains.

For more information: https://japanrailpass.net/en/purchase/price/

If traveling on the Tokaido, Sanyo, or Kyushu Shinkansen: sign up for a SmartEX account

(This section assumes you are not getting a JR Pass. Unlike most people, I actually don’t like using it because the new price of it makes it mostly a bad deal.)

SmartEX is the official booking platform for Tokaido, Sanyo, and Kyushu Shinkansen trains operated by JR Central and JR West. The Sanyo and Tokaido Shinkansen lines are connected. Collectively, they run between Fukuoka and Tokyo (with Hiroshima, Kobe, Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya, and Yokohama in between).

Create an account and log in on the SmartEX website: https://smart-ex.jp/en/index.php

Please note, the website and app are disabled for maintainance every night from 11:30pm to 6am Japan Standard Time, so you won’t be able to create an account or log in during that time. When in the United States, try to sign up for it in the late afternoon or early evening.

Activate a Suica on your compatible smartphone or Apple Watch

In Japan, public transport cards can be used across the country (with few exceptions). Each local agency issues their own brand, but the major transport cards are all interoperable with other transit networks. As most foreigners arrive in Tokyo when first visiting Japan, the one you’ll probably use is called Suica.

Suica is a public transport card offered by JR East, the Tokyo branch of the national rail company. Traditionally, it’s been a credit card-sized IC card. It is the most interoperable IC card throughout all of Japan. You will use it for all of your public transportation needs.

If you have an iPhone, I highly recommend getting a Suica through your Apple Wallet, because your iPhone is capable of emulating the same IC card functionality as a physical Suica card. If you also have an Apple Watch, that’s even better! You can put your Suica on your Apple Watch instead by going to the Apple Wallet app on your watch (or the Apple Wallet section of your Watch app on your iPhone). Otherwise, you may have difficulties in Japan using public transit because there is currently a shortage of Suica physical cards. Plus, as long as you can recharge your phone’s/smartwatch’s battery, it’s actually a lot more convenient to use the virtual Suica than using a physical Suica.

Using a Suica on your smartphone or smartwatch is very convenient because you can add money and recharge your Suica with your foreign debit or credit card, as long as it’s not a Visa credit card (for some odd reason, as of 2023). I recommend using a non-Visa credit card with no foreign transaction fees, like a Bilt Rewards Card, Apple Card, or an American Express Green/Gold/Platinum Card. (Sadly, until JR East fixes the Visa credit cards issue, that excludes the Chase Sapphire cards and the Capital One Venture X.) If you want to recharge your Suica at a machine in-person, there’s a good chance it will only take cash, which is inconvenient. Plus, you don’t want to make a detour to the machine to add money all the time, when you could very well do it from the convenience of your palm/wrist!

Be sure to recharge your Suica frequently, and if still in Japan, never have below 500 yen on it, or else you may experience issues trying to leave the station if your balance is insufficient for your journey.

Another thing to remember is that IC cards in Japan can be used to purchase items at convenience stores and vending machines which accept IC cards. (Not all vending machines take IC cards though.) Additionally, major convenience stores will have the ability to recharge your IC cards with physical yen cash (and maybe credit card).

Fill out an online customs declaration form

As of early 2024, Visit Japan Web is the official government website where you can fill out your customs declaration. https://www.vjw.digital.go.jp/main/#/vjwplo001

While it’s not strictly necessary to use this online customs declaration form, I highly recommend it. You can save time on the plane ride, or worse, at baggage claim filling it out. Instead, you can effortlessly go through an often-shorter line to clear customs for people with QR codes.

Planning your transit trips

When traveling on a complex transit route with multiple options, it’s best to use something like Navitime, which can provide better results than Google Maps: https://japantravel.navitime.com/en/area/jp/route

Arriving from an international flight

Soon after arriving, you will be brought to the place to clear immigration and customs. First, you’ll clear passport control. Hand your passport to the officer, who will affix a paper stamp on a page in your passport. It is equivalent to other countries’ ink stamps, and details when you entered the country and when you are cleared to leave. (This stamp is particularly important if you want to do tax-free shopping at stores, because foreigners will be able to get a 10% discount with this stamp proving they don’t live in Japan.) Anyway, this officer probably won’t ask you any questions unless something’s off.

Then, you’ll proceed to baggage claim and customs. Hopefully, you’ll have either completed the Visit Japan Web online customs declaration and will have a QR code to present, or you’ll have a completed paper customs declaration that the flight attendants handed out to you on the plane. If not, you’ll need to fill one out at baggage claim.

Finally, you’ll go through the appropriate line to leave the baggage claim area. The customs officers might ask about your plans. Cooperate, don’t hide any information, and answer calmly and with a smile so they’ll let you go on your merry way.

Arriving at Haneda Terminal 3

This assumes you are arriving at Haneda Terminal 3, like almost all foreigners do when they fly to Haneda Airport.

As soon as you exit the customs doors, there should be some 7-Eleven ATMs in the arrival halls if you go straight, turn left, or right. Go to them and withdraw at least ¥5,000 JPY if you are staying for fewer than 3 days, or start with ¥10,000 JPY for a week-long trip. (You can always withdraw more later.)

Then, find the directions for the Keikyu Line or the Tokyo Monorail, depending on which one Google Maps tells you to take. The Keikyu Line requires you to go a bit further and then follow escalators/elevators downstairs, whereas the Monorail requires you to go upstairs. Use your Suica or other IC card to tap in and enjoy the ride!

Arriving at Narita Terminal 2

(Sorry, I currently do not have any advice for arriving at Narita Terminal 1. This information is only for Narita Terminal 2. Please refer to other online sources for Narita information!)

If you are flying on Japan Airlines or another oneworld carrier, chances are you’re flying to Terminal 2.

As soon as you exit the customs doors, turn left and follow signs for trains. Take the escalators to go downstairs one level. Then, turn right and walk straight. You will enter the underground train station.

Signs will point you to one of three options, each of which are on different tracks:

• Narita Express (operated by JR East)
• Narita Skyliner (operated by Keisei)
• Narita Sky Access Express

The first two are airport direct trains that operate at a fast speed directly to major stations in Tokyo. The latter is a local commuter train line that goes all the way to Narita International Airport. Narita Express and Narita Skyliner both cost over ¥1,000 more than Narita Sky Access Express.

If time is on your side (meaning your tickets are cheap) and you want to save money, try to go with the Narita Sky Access Express. Otherwise, go with the Narita Express or Narita Skyliner.

Look up the best route for your situation with a combination of Google Maps and Navitime (because sometimes Google Maps will neglect to show you the best routes): https://japantravel.navitime.com/en/area/jp/route/

Using your IC card for public transit and the Shinkansen

On local public transit, you use your IC card to tap in, tap out, or both, and the amount is deducted from your stored balance.

On the Shinkansen, you can’t just tap in and out and have the money deducted from your stored balance. For the Shinkansen between Fukuoka and Tokyo (with Hiroshima, Kobe, Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya, and Yokohama in between) as well as Kyushu, you’ll need to book tickets via the SmartEX website or app unless you have a JR Pass. After the tickets are booked, you can make things easy by associating your IC card.

For the virtual Suica on your phone or smartwatch, you need to download the Suica app from the App Store, associate your Suica with the app, press the info icon on the front page, and copy the Suica ID beginning with “JE” (which stands for JR East). Paste the Suica ID in the SmartEX app/website where it asks for what your IC card ID is. Once that’s done, you will be able to use your Suica to tap in/out at the Shinkansen station.

For an ICOCA on an iPhone, the ICOCA ID is shown in the Apple Wallet when you go to your ICOCA and press the three dots on the top right corner, choose “Card Details”, and scroll down.

In summary, on local trains, your IC card functions as both an identifier and a payment method for your “just-in-time” ticket, but on the Shinkansen, it only functions as an identifier linked to your separately-purchased ticket.

Closing thoughts

Japan is an awesome country. Hopefully, this article helps clear things up and gets you on the right path to worrying less about the logistics and spending more time having fun and soaking it all in!